Discover Albania: An Itinerary in 21 days
Itinerary 10 daysItinerary 16 days
Albania, located in Southeastern Europe on the Adriatic and Ionian Seas, is a country steeped in rich history and stunning landscapes. With its stunning coastline, pristine beaches, and majestic mountains, it is a diverse landscape that appeals to everyone. Albania is known for its mix of cultures, reflected in the architecture, cuisine, and traditions. From historical cities like the capital Tirana to the ancient ruins of Butrint and the enchanting Albanian Alps, the country offers a range of experiences. The hospitable people add to the charm of the country, where traditions are still alive and visitors are welcomed with open arms. While the country has had a turbulent past, it is now blossoming as a tourist destination that attracts culture seekers, nature lovers, and beachgoers alike, offering a unique and unforgettable experience for every traveler.
Transportation during your trip in Albania
During your trip through Albania we recommend that you book a rental car. We have been to the east of the country and into the mountains and needed a a 4×4. Are you not planning to go into the mountains, you can hire any car you like. The public transport is up and coming in Albania. From Tirana here are a lot of bus routes to the bigger cities and villages. The smaller villages are harder to reach, so you might need a taxi if you’re planning to go there.
Although traveling by train is getting more popular in Europe, Albania is not yet prepared for this kind of travel. There a just a few steam-trains and not a lot of tracks. Mini-buses and taxis are a good alternative. They are pretty cheap and reliable. We used Speedtaxi, for which you can download an app or use Whatsapp in the bigger cities. You can find the phone numbers on their website.
How many days do you need for this itinerary
For this itinerary we recommend that you take 21 days. This way you can experience all the aspects of this amazing versatile country. If you have less time, you can check out our 16 days or 10 days itineraries. Or you can adjust the route yourself by taking a more or less in Berat, Tirana, Shkodër, Theth, Pogradec or on the coast.
Day 1: Shköder
Upon arrival in Tirana, you should pick up your rental car immediately. After picking up the car, we recommend going straight to Shkodër. There is plenty of time for Tirana at the end of the trip, but if you want to visit the capital already, you can check out the article here.
Head straight to this supermarket outside Tirana as soon as you head towards Shkodër. You can stock up on groceries here and then go to your hotel well-prepared. During the day, you can shop in Shkodër, acclimatize to Albania, and relax on the bar street. Kole Idromeno Street gets really busy in the evening, as they eat here at 9pm. Make sure you have a table in advance to enjoy delicious Albanian tapas or pizza. Then you can enjoy the wonderful temperatures and look back with satisfaction on the start of your adventure in Albania.
Hotel recommendation: Hotel Tradita. This authentic boutique hotel offers you the comfort of a one-stop shop. With its own restaurant where you can eat local food perfectly, its own bicycle rental to visit everything nearby and its own parking lot in the city center. The perfect place to stay and do everything you want in Shkodër.
Day 2: Shköder
After breakfast, you will explore the city and visit the many attractions of Shkodër today. Start at Rozafa Castle, an Ottoman-era castle with ruins still standing. Then drive to the Mesi Bridge, where you can admire this Ottoman wonder of twelve arches. From there, you can walk through the beautiful streets of Shkodër in the center and visit the Ebu Beker Mosque, which is open to everyone. Women must wear something like a scarf to cover their hair here. Then you can visit the only photography museum in Albania, the National Marubi Museum. Or go out and take a boat tour and see the flora and fauna of Lake Shkodër. See more tours in Shkodër here. Do you want to read more about Shkodër? Then we have a full article about Shkodër here.
Hotel recommendation: Hotel Rozafa. This luxurious four-star hotel will pamper you to the fullest. The location is perfect in the center, opposite the Ebu Beker Mosque and the Kole Idromeno Street. A private parking lot and a good breakfast give you all the conveniences you need.
Day 3: Theth
Today you head towards Theth. A wonderful ride where you drive through a lot of nature and over the pass. We chose to drive ourselves, but you can also take a taxi to Theth. Tomorrow is the start of the Theth – Valbonë trail. But first you can discover Theth yourself. There are a number of different small hikes here with incredibly beautiful places. You can walk to the Güres waterfall, a short walk with a number of places where you have to climb a bit. It takes about half an hour to get there and half an hour back. You can even take a little dip in the water, something the locals like to do.
After the waterfall you will take a longer trip to The Blue Eye. This is a round trip walk of about an hour. Just before you arrive at The Blue Eye, you have the start of the river, where you can relax, because most people skip this. Afterwards you can admire and walk around The Blue Eye. Be sure to visit the top, because the view is amazing. After the two hikes you can enjoy a delicious meal on the newly created square on the edge of Theth and enjoy the commotion that takes place in a small village.
Hotel recommendation: Royal Land. Perfect view over Theth and wonderful beds to rest before you start the big hike. The hotel even prepares packed lunches and let the owners know that you want to hike, and they will help you arrange drop-off and pick-up.
Day 4: Theth – Valbonë
You get up early today to start the hike at sunrise. Bring your water bottle, lunch and bars and start the walk while it is still nice and cool outside. You start the hike with a climb up, where you get more and more views over the valley. Then you go into the forest for about three kilometers, where you can enjoy the heights at which these beautiful forests grow. After that you walk straight through the forest for a while until you arrive at the first café. A short rest, and then you walk another 250 meters up on a two-kilometre path. As soon as you stand on the pass you can look out over both beautiful unique valleys. Be sure to climb the last part for amazing views at the top, where you can also enjoy your lunch.
After some nice photos it is time to go down towards Valbonë. The beginning goes down nice and quickly with many zigzag roads, but after that it gets tough. After about an hour’s walk you will come across a café where you can rest, refill your water and possibly drink something sweet. Then you walk down through a forest for another hour and the last hour and a half you walk on a stone path towards Valbonë. Here you will come across the first of many small air raid shelters, which you should definitely take a closer look at. From then on you can relax in your hotel and have dinner at the Tradita restaurant.
Hotel recommendation: Villas Jezercal. This spacious park is fully equipped. A beautiful bathroom, comfortable beds and a beautiful square in the middle. You can have breakfast in the adjacent Tradita restaurant, as well as dinner. A wonderful place after a long hike.
Day 5: Valbonë and a round trip to Theth
In the morning you take the taxi to the ferry, which sails from Fierze across Komani Lake to Koman. You can book the taxi when booking your ticket for the boat online. Once you arrive at the ferry, you can relax in the café. Here you can already see the cliffs and the clear blue water in front of you. The ferry takes two and a half hours, during which you can enjoy a beautiful ride between the cliffs. Every bend gives a different view of this spectacular environment. After arrival, a scheduled taxi ride to Shkodër awaits you. We went to Theth via Speedtaxi, where the rental car was still parked and our belongings were in the hotel. If your hotel is in Shköder, you can recover here tonight from two days of adventure.
We spent these three days in the north this way, but there are different ways to do the Valbonë – Theth hike. Or visiting Komani Lake. View our separate article about this area.
Hotel recommendation Theth: Thethi Villas. A wonderful place to spend the night after a great adventure is in one of these tiny houses. Enjoy a lovely bath and sit around the campfire in the evening and enjoy the view of the mountains. You can also return to Royal Land if you left your belongings there.
Hotel recommendation Shkodër: Hotel Rozafa. This luxurious four-star hotel takes care of your every need. It’s the perfect place to unwind after a strenuous hike and leave your worries behind. Everything is taken care of for you.
Tip: Make sure you book the ferry in time, it is often fully booked a few days in advance.
Day 6: Theth to Radomirë
Today there is a drive of more than five hours on the schedule if you depart from Theth. A long journey that takes you through the interior of Albania to the northeast. With beautiful viewpoints along the way and adventurous roads to drive, this is a wonderful journey through Albania. Along the way you can stop in Kukës, a Nobel Peace Prize winning city for their role in the Kosovo War. The city also has an underground tunnel system, built in communist times. Or visit Hotel Amerika, where you can look out over the surroundings from the rooftop bar. As soon as you arrive in the picturesque village of Radomirë you can immediately make plans for the next day at a restaurant. Spend the day relaxing and enjoying the surroundings. Tomorrow a day of beautiful climbing awaits!
Hotel recommendation: Bujtina Gjana. From this guest house you can easily reach the start, because you only have to drive 10 minutes to Radomire. The beautiful location on the mountains and the well-maintained surroundings ensure a pleasant stay.
Tip: Closeby there is the village of Vasie, where the beautiful and tasty restaurant Vasije is located and where you can stay in a beautiful self made house.
Day 7: Korab mountain hike
Get up nice and early so that you get to the starting point in time. You will hike nine kilometers to the top today, which will take you about six hours. The return will take about five hours, where you still have to take stops and your own walking pace into account. Therefore, make sure you have salty and sweet snacks and of course more than enough water. You start your trip in the beautiful village of Radomirë. At the start you slowly walk up along beautiful waters and cattle routes. After about three kilometers of walking you really enter the mountain and walk two kilometers along beautiful mountains, valleys and views. After you have walked another three kilometers past beautiful sights, spacious meadows, babbling brooks and steep rocks, the water point appears.
Now it’s only a two kilometer walk to the viewpoint that is located on the border with North Macedonia. Here you have a great view of the beautiful nature of North Macedonia and of the beautiful route you have just walked. You then climb the last kilometer to the top and there you can enjoy your beautiful walking route and then you have two choices. Return the same way or, like us, the more difficult way back along a different route.
After you have had a refreshing drink at one of the restaurants near the car, you can walk or drive back to the same hotel or guesthouse and enjoy a tough but beautiful day.
Hotel recommendation: Bujtina Gjana. From this guest house you can easily reach the start, because you only have to drive 10 minutes to Radomire. The beautiful location on the mountains and the well-maintained surroundings ensure a pleasant stay.
Tip: Download the map in advance on Maps.me. Also keep in mind that there is limited reach with your mobile phone. If you do go over the border, you also need an e-sim of Northern-Macedonia, so you have reach in this country as well.
Day 8: Radomire to Pogradec
Start the day relaxed, because today there is a five-hour drive on the program. You drive through beautiful mountains, forests and villages, where you can certainly relax every now and then. After about two and a half hours of driving you will come across a trout restaurant in Borova, Trofta Borovë, where you can eat very good trout and recover from the first half of the ride. In 2023 it was still quite a journey to get there, but the second part of the road was already asphalted. We recommend a rental car that is a bit sturdier, until the road is completely ready. You will see this a lot in Albania, beautiful roads alternating with stone and dirt roads.
Once you have arrived in Pogradec, you can immediately go to the boulevard to relax and enjoy. They eat very late in the country, which you will also see from the crowds. It only fills up after 7 p.m., when the highway is closed along the boulevard. Be sure to eat tonight in restaurant Rosa e Tymosur, where you can eat delicious Albanian duck.
Hotel recommendation: Berberi Guest House. This guesthouse is hosted by the nicest old couple in Albania. Very hospitable, excellent rooms and great location near the boulevard. And a small espresso in the morning is definitely recommended.
Tip: If you have agreed in advance that you can go to or through a foreign country by car, it will take you three and a half hours. Check this carefully in the conditions of your rental car.
Day 9: Pogradec and surroundings
Today you will explore the area, this can be done in different ways. By car, walking and cycling. We recommend going by bike, especially when the weather is nice. We recommend this bicycle rental company where you can rent a good bicycle. Start your day with a climb to the top of the Pogradec Viewpoint. Quite a climb, but worth it with a great view of the city and the lake. After the descent you can head towards North Macedonia to visit Saint Naum, a monastery from the year 905. Make sure you have your passport with you, because then you can pass customs without any problems. Once at the monastery you can walk along a boulevard that is also located on Lake Ohrid. Here you can enjoy the beautiful garden with live peacocks and the beautiful monastery itself.
From here you can head back to Pogradec to end the day in the Drilon park. You can walk, cycle and enjoy nature here. After you have enjoyed it, you can return to Pogradec. Once you return you can sit by the water on the beach at Visit Pogradec, a great beach bar. Here you can relax by the water with a refreshing drink. In the evening you can have a bite to eat at the KAFENE restaurant on the boulevard. They have delicious burgers and snacks on the menu here, in addition to a great atmosphere of course.
Hotel recommendation: The British Hotel. If you want more luxury this night and want to be pampered, you can book this beautiful hotel. You get value for your money here and the service is great.
Day 10: Pogradec to Përmet
Today there is a five-hour drive on the program. You drive towards Përmet, known as the “City of Roses” and the greenest and cleanest city in Albania. Before you arrive, take a peaceful walk through the Lengarica valley. You first come across the beautiful Kadiut bridge, after which you walk into the beautiful gorge. It is useful to take water shoes with you, as this will make it a lot easier to walk on the stones and because of the amount of water you have to walk through. The valley is beautiful and you only have to walk an hour to see everything. This tour can also be done with a guide. After you have seen this beautiful natural phenomenon, you can relax in the Benja thermal baths, so don’t forget your swimwear.
The Vjosa River is located near Përmet. This is one of the last wild rivers in Europe and has been protected as a nature park since March 15, 2023. A must in this area is to go rafting in this beautiful nature park.
Hotel recommendation: Funky Guesthouse. In this guesthouse you can spend the night in a modern and clean room. A beautiful environment from where you can also book your extra activities directly.
Tip 1: After an hour there is a stopover in Pustec. A small village on the edge of Lake Prespa, bordering Greece. Here you can visit the island of Maligrad, where a church has been carved out of the rock and you can enjoy a delicious meal at the Panorama restaurant.
Tip 2: There are many hiking trails in the area. Ask at the hotel what the most beautiful hiking trails in the area are.
Day 11: Permet to Gjirokastër
Today you drive towards one of the highlights of Albania. The beautiful Gjirokastër. As soon as you arrive after a drive of more than an hour, you can start sightseeing at the Old Bazaar. This well-known intersection, where you can shop or have a snack and drink, looks beautiful and is always lively.
After this it is time for a tour of Enver Hoxha’s private bunker, the Cold War bunker. These tickets cannot be booked online, you will have to go to the ticket office at least fifteen minutes in advance. The tours can be booked every half hour, so you can just walk there. This is located to the right of the entrance to the town hall. Everything in the bunkers has been left as it was found. There are old newspapers, the desks are still there and you can even look into the old water reservoir. Make sure you bring a jacket, because it is always 16 degrees Celsius in the bunker.
Afterwards, take a stroll through the city, enjoy a beautiful terrace and have dinner in the evening at Restaurant Kashah, where the service is great and the food is even better. You can try different bars in the evening and enjoy the atmosphere in this beautiful city.
Hotel recommendation: Hotel Domino. This super centrally located hotel offers excellent rooms, a delicious breakfast at the adjacent bakery and within a few seconds you will be at the Old Bazaar, the highlight of Gjirokastër.
Dag 12: Gjirokastër
Start your day at 9:00 AM in the castle. Make sure you’re here when it opens, because later in the day it fills up with group tours and excursions from out of town. The castle is very large and you can find a lot of information in the materials themselves, but you can also book a three-hour guided tour, which also takes you to the Zerate house. This house is the oldest Ottoman house in Gjirokastër.
The last part of the day you will go hiking. You will visit the Ali-Pasha bridge. This bridge was once part of a 212 kilometer long aqueduct complex, built at the beginning of the 19th century. Most of it has been demolished, but this picture of the architecture is still there. You can get there via the center, if you walk through the Dunavat district. You can get on and under the bridge, so be sure to do both. After you’ve reached the bottom, you can walk back on the other side of the old river. Here you get a completely different picture of the beautiful surroundings. In the evening you can eat in the Dunavat district, at the beautiful Kardashi restaurant, where there is live music and fantastic Albanian food. You can read more about Gjirokastër in our separate article.
Hotel recommendation: Hotel Kastro. This hotel offers excellent facilities and is ideally located close to the Old Bazaar. The beautiful rooms with excellent bathrooms and nice showers offer you the comfort you want after a wonderful day of walking through Gjirokastër.
Day 13 + 14: Gjirokastër to Ksamil
Today you head towards Ksamil, where you can enjoy the most beautiful nature. Spend the morning in Butrint National Park. Here you can enjoy the most important archaeological park in Albania. The ancient city was built in the Iron Age and developed until the Middle Ages. There is, among other things, a Roman theater, a basilica and two castles. It is located in a wooded area on the edge of Lake Butrint and the Vivari channel. You can read more about this in our future article about Butrint.
The rest of the day is all about relaxation and enjoyment. Walk along the beaches, rent a beach bed and enjoy the sun. We recommend Black Pearl, as you can drink above the water and enjoy the sunset and the clear blue water. Then drink a cocktail at the Vamos cocktail bar (5 p.m. to 9 p.m. happy hour) and soak up the last rays of sunshine. Afterwards you can have a delicious dinner at one of the many restaurants. Afterwards you can make a nice stroll along the coast.
Hotel recommendation: Ksamil Central Park Hotel. The beautiful, luxurious room in this centrally located hotel is located in a quiet area and offers an excellent breakfast. A perfect base to enjoy the beach all day and relax in the evening.
Tip: If you want to rent a beach bed, you can bring your own food and drinks, as this is not an obligation at most bars.
Day 15: Ksamil to Dhërmi
Start the day early by going to the Blue Eye nearby. A very touristy place, you will have to be there in time. You take a half-hour walk that takes you to the natural source where the clear blue water comes from the ground and supplies the area with water. Have a nice drink at the restaurant and then take the car towards Dhërmi. Make sure you book a room in time, because this place is known by the locals as a holiday resort. The spacious boulevard provides you with all kinds of drinks and beautiful eateries. Hidden behind the rocks is the beautiful Rosè by Havana, where you can enjoy the sunset by the water with a book and a cocktail.
Hotel recommendation: Hotel Villa Petro Dhermi. Within a few minutes you’ll reach the beach and walk along the beautiful boulevards. In this amazing home-feel hotel you have everything you need to feel at home, away from home.
Day 16: Dhërmi
Start your day quietly and have breakfast along the boulevard. Then you can get in the car and drive towards the mountains of the Llogara National Park for a nice trek. A path where cars can also drive leads you to the top of Maja e Thanasit. At the top you have a beautiful view over the Ionian Sea. Or you can opt for the slightly longer trek to the Maja e Qorrës. A steep climb at the end gives you a beautiful view of the Llogara National Park. Both hikes can be started from the Restaurant Appollonia, Llogora. You can read about this in our future article about Llogara National Park.
On the way back to Dhërmi you drive past Himare. There is a hidden beach behind beachbar Amar, where you can relax between the rocks by the water. In the evening you can have a delicious meal in Dhërmi at the Royal Blue, the busiest restaurant on the boulevard, with very tasty food. Make sure you are on time, because there is often a long queue in the evening. End your evening on the beach at one of the beach bars, where the fires are burning and free beach chairs are waiting for you.
Hotel recommendation: Hotel Villa Petro Dhermi. Within a few minutes you’ll reach the beach and walk along the beautiful boulevards. In this amazing home-feel hotel you have everything you need to feel at home, away from home.
Tip: If you want to see more along the coast and enjoy the Ionian Sea, you can always drive past Vlöre or Sarande.
Day 17: Gjipe Beach and the way to Berat
Start the day with A nice walk to the beach via the Gjipe Beach Trail. Park the car just before the exit in the bend. From this spot you can walk very close to the edge of the valley on the left. Enjoy the beautiful views as you walk towards the beach. Another route is via a paid parking lot. closer to the beach. You can then descend via the second half of the Beach Trail. You can also go to the beach via the partially paved road.
When you arrive you can swim in the Ionian Sea and enjoy the sun. There are also small cafes where you can have a drink. Also take a trip through the valley. It is an easy walk with beautiful views of the mountains on both sides. You can also descend into the gorge with a tour or take a boat there with a guide.
To Berat
After this beautiful adventure and relaxing on the beach, you drive to beautiful Berat. There you can enjoy the city of 1001 windows. The city received this nickname because of the view of the beautiful Mangala district built at a height. Upon arrival you can walk along the beautiful boulevard and have a snack and a drink to recover from another beautiful day. If you are in Berat before five o’clock, you can immediately join a free tour. This takes you through the Gorica district, the medieval square and the castle. You can read more about this in our article about Berat.
Hotel recommendation: Ana Rest House Hostel Berat. This affordable hostel is located in the traditional and charming Gorica district, just across the Osum River. The hostel is located in an 18th century house that has been transformed into a cozy hostel with a garden, barbecue, terrace and common room.
Tip: If you cannot make it to the tour, check the website to see what time the morning tour departs.
Day 18: Berat
Today you start the day with an exploration of the city with a nice walk through the Mangala district. Here you will find all kinds of small alleys, cafes and shops at home. Strolling through this neighborhood is a wonderful hour of walking in the village. Then you get in the car to Bogove waterfalls. You park the car fifteen minutes from the waterfalls and then walk along an unpaved road to the waterfall. Be sure to bring your swimwear, because you can take a dip in the cold water.
After enjoying yourself for a while, take the car for half an hour to the Osumi gorge. Check out our article about Berat for more information! In the evening you return and can eat at Restaurant Kapllani. This traditional restaurant is located on the Osum in the Gorica district and is highly recommended.
Hotel recommendation: Guest House Iljesa. This elegant 19th century house within the castle walls is a special overnight stay. The hotel is located in the heart of the old town and has panoramic views over the valley.
Tip: Tomorrow will take you to Tirana. If you want to expand your adventure, read our article about Durres when it’s done.
Day 19: To Tirana
Today you go to Tirana, the capital of Albania. Upon arrival you can look for the Bunk’Art 2 in the center. An impressive museum about the communist period in Albania. After this, you continue to The House of Leaves, a museum dedicated to the secret service of Hoxha (Hosja). Finally, you view Hoxha’s house, which you do not yet have access to (2023). The Albanian government is working on a plan for what to do with it. It may be open when you get there.
In the evening we recommend eating at Spaghetti Western, where there is a beautiful American atmosphere and you can eat indoors and outdoors. From there you can go to many cocktail bars to end your evening well. You can read even more about Tirana in our article here!
Hotel recommendation: Vanilla Sky Boutique Hostel. Located a short distance from the popular Blloku area, this affordable hostel offers a communal kitchen, shared lounge and free WiFi.
Tip: If there is no parking at your hotel, there are several parking garages inside and outside the center.
Day 20: Tirana
Start your day at Skanderbeg Square, where the free tour of Tirana takes place. You start on the square and end just behind the square at an Orthodox church. Here you can see the pyramid, the former museum dedicated to Hoxha, here, which is currently being converted into a cultural and educational center. You can walk all the way up here and get a beautiful view of this part of the city. During this tour you will also see the “castle” of Tirana, a shopping street where you can also enjoy a delicious meal in the evening. Also visit Tanner’s bridge or go to the National Historical Museum. You can read more about this in our article about Tirana.
Hotel recommendation: ART Hotel Tirana. Located 750 meters from Skanderbeg Square, this budget-friendly hotel offers a lounge, terrace, bar, free Wi-Fi and breakfast. The rooms are artistically and comfortably furnished.
Day 21: Last day in Tirana and going home
Today is the day of departure. Fortunately, you are already in Tirana and the drive to the airport is not that far. Stroll through the Pazari i ri, the new bazaar, where you can find all kinds of Albanian products and souvenirs or have a nice brunch nearby. Today you still have time to walk around Tirana and do the attractions and sights you want to see before boarding the plane.
You have read about a tour through Albania and have seen many beautiful walks in, for example, Valbonë, Korab and Gjirokastër. You have also been able to taste culture in Berat, Shkodër and Tirana and you have been able to enjoy the water in Ksamil, Dhërmi and Pogradec. We hope you have read this itinerary with a smile and are looking forward to your own adventure in Albania. Don’t forget to look at our 16 days or 10 days route and our individual articles about Berat or Tirana, for example.
